I have had so many questions about how I did these after I shared my test model, that I thought I would have a shot at creating a painting guide for them.
First things first, creative plagiarism irritates me so credit to @slowandpurposeless (insta) for his, as they are what i based mine on with his permission.
- Airbrush white scar GW
- Death guard green GW
- Rhinox hide GW
- Ironbreaker GW
- Zandri dust GW
- Gorthor brown GW
- Athonian camoshade GW
- Nuln oil GW
- Abbadon Black GW
- Administratum grey GW
- Typhus corrosion GW
- Ryza rust GW
- Stormhost Silver GW
- Nurgling green GW
- Krieg Khaki GW
- Hexwraith flame GW
- Warplock bronze GW
- Balthasar Gold GW
- Nihlakh oxide GW
- Mechanichum standard Grey GW
The brush I used was a size 2 standard brush and a drybrush (thanks to propainted podcasts advice I use a make up brush for a drybrush… sooo good)
Step 1 Preparation
I constructed them using plastic glue and then used a file while still drying to file the seams flat. This creates a powder that mixes with the glue and fills, mostly, any gaps.
Because any seams would show up a lot with the washes I would use, I thdn painted liquid greenstuff and 2 coats of ardcoat over the seam (another great tip from propainted).
Once done I undercoated them in citadel chaos black and checked for any mould lines or seams. Sorted them out and touched up.
Next came a simple 45 degree zenith of white through the airbrush. This could similarly be achieved with layers of grey then white drybrushing using a big soft brush.
The base was then covered in Astrogranite textured paint by GW
Step 2 Basecoats
First base coats are deathguard green for the skin, mechanicum standard grey for the rocks and gravestones, ironbreaker for the metal, and rhinox hide for the wood.
The unit leader needs a little more bling so some warplock bronze was used for the candlestick and weapon fittings
Step 3 The robes
Leaving the top clean and wiping away any excess that gets on it, zandri dust watered right down to a glaze using aircast thinner was used. Aircast thinner breaks the surface tension better than water and creates a nicer suspension, but water would do fine. Brush strokes heading towards the bottom of the model to concetrate the pigment there.
Then the same is done using Gorthor Brown….
Next I did a over wash of athonian camoshade, covering the skin, all the robes save the head and hood, and leaving the metalwork as well. (Dont worry if some gets on the metalwork)
Then nuln oil was used on the lower parts of the robes, the metalwork and the base and gravestone
Then abbadon black was thinned and built up at the very bottom
The next bit is to add the patches, first rhinox hide then evil suns scarlet was applied thined down, making sure there was no tide marks. I used a stippling action for this bit.
Then all but the head had a glaze, not wash, of seraphim sepia. This was applied making sure the was no pooling.
Finally the red was strengthened with a second coat, applied in the same manner as before.
Step 4 Faces and The skin and wood
Now we need to build up the layers on these bits.
The face and hood was layered with admimistratum grey, making sure the depths of the cowel are left dark, and the transition to the cloak is smooth.
Administratum was also used to highlight the lower black areas of the robe and define some edges. This step could be left out.
Then the face and edges of the cowel were highlighted with airbrush white scar (its thinner, more translucent and applies better than the other whites in the GW range)
The skin on the arms was highlighted nurge green then Krieg Khaki. Trying to push the contrast as much as possible.
The wood was highlighted with gorthor brown.
Step 5 The metal
The metalwork was treated to a coat of typhus corrosion. This was applied in a patchy fashion and at various consistencies to simulate rust. Use an old brush for this, the particled in typhus will ruin a brush if you are not meticulously careful.
The areas were then drybrushed using Ryza rust.
Then chips and edges highlighted with stormhost silver
The bronze was selectively washed with nihlakh oxide and highlighted with Balthasar gold. The candles were painted zandri dust and highlighed with some white mixed in.
Step 6 The flames and bases
The flames were super easy and a chance for me to use the new technical paint hexwraith flame. One coat over the flames, then a slight highlight with airbrush whitescar and ther were done. Love that new technical!
The base was a straw coloured static grass and then some whisps of cotton wool drawn out super thin to simulate fog.
The finished unit
All done!! Here are my finished Chain rasps.
I hope you found the guide useful, if you have any questions please dont hesitate to contact us either here in the comment or on facebook, twitter or instagram.